Brown Butter Kabaash
A playful exploration of a Somali classic.
Hilib (meat) is adored by all Somalis. As such, vegetarianism can be seen as peculiar or a sort of ailment. I've witnessed Hoyoo's (Mums) and Habo's (aunties) quickly morph into nutritionists when informed that someone is a vegetarian. At times, their concern can promote a brazen disregard for dietary requirements. When I informed my mum that my husband was a vegetarian before taking him for dinner, she still cooked him a huge slab of lamb alongside some rice. Similarly, when I first took my husband to my sister's house, pre-warning her that he was a vegetarian, she served us salmon. Thankfully, my husband is more flexitarian than vegetarian.
Somali cuisine is tied to a nomadic culture where food systems rely heavily on animals, so it’s easy to explain the cultural embedding of meat throughout this. As a result, I'm highly conscious of the ways Somali food is rooted in meat, and the ways that we can fall short of delivering delicious Somali food to non-meat eaters. This dish attempts to address some of the ways we can shift towards alternatives while still maintaining the rich fattiness of traditional dishes like hilib. Substituting lamb for cabbage, the process is the same: we salt, sear, cook low and slow, with patience and love.
A Veggie Take On Hilib
A Veggie Take On Hilib
Serves 4 as a side dish
Sweetheart cabbage
100g of unsalted butter
1 1/2 tbsp miso
Honey 1 tsp
Xawaash (Somali spice mix)*
3 stems of Spring onions
1 brown onion
1 1/2 tsp Sesame oil
2 tbsp Neutral oil - Vegetable or Sunflower oil
1 tsp White Wine Vinegar
1 tsp salt
300 ml Sour cream
1 clove of garlic
Ingredients
* Quick tip: Almost all the recipes I share will call for Xawaash - a traditional Somali spice mix, consisting of cumin, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and stock. There are varying spices with each kind. Most Somali recipes online will call on you to blend your own spices but this isn’t necessary, especially if you don’t have the time. You can buy veggie and non veggie xawaash from a Somali grocers. If you are based in london, it isn’t hard to find.
Step One
Pre-heat your oven to 180C/160C Fan. Quarter your cabbage lengthways. Rinse the cabbage, dry with a kitchen towel and then sprinkle salt cut side up.
Step Two
Put your butter in a saucepan, cook for 6-7 minutes on a medium high heat until the butter is foamy and a deep brown.
Step Three
Add your spices - the xawaash, paprika, honey, miso and salt - to the butter. Mix together until combined.
Step Four
Pour the butter mixture over the cabbage and put in oven uncovered. Cook at 160 for 40-50 mins. Keep basting the cabbage with its own mixture every 15 mins or so.
Step Five
While the cabbage is in the oven make your saucy base. Grill some spring onions on the hob. Heat some sesame oil. Trim the ends of your spring onions, then add to your hot oil. Char the spring onions until soft and slightly wilted. Approximately 3 minutes.
Step Six
Put the spring onions into a food processor with your clove of garlic. 1 tbsp of your sesame oil and a sprinkle of salt. Blitz until smooth. Add to the sour cream. Taste and add extra salt, pepper and bit of honey and chilli if needed for extra balance
Step Seven
After 40/50 mins, change the over setting to grill and let the cabbage cook for another 15 minutes. While you finish off the cabbage in the oven, thinly slice some onions (use a mandolin if you have one!) and cook in your neutral oil till caramelised. Place your onions on top of a kitchen towel, so any excess oil is removed.
Step Eight
Plate up the dish, with sour cream at bottom, cabbage on top, pour over any remaining butter mixture. Hit it with a little bit of vinegar for brightness and pile the caramelised onions on top